SAMAYA x TIMOTHÉE NITSCHKE

 

 

Although everything pointed to a hostile environment, Timothée Nitschke, Ilona Serrar, and Paul Blanié headed to Ben Nevis in Scotland in the heart of winter. Despite the unpredictable weather, the cold, and the constant wind, the three companions stopped at nothing, driven by their passion for mountaineering and the strength of their rope team. For Samaya, they look back on these ten icy days.

 

Ilona Serrar: Driven by boundless energy, a desire for travel, and a need for adventure, we decided to get off the beaten path. For us, there was no need for a trip to the other side of the world or long-haul flights: a Dacia Sandero and an icy mountain would suffice. We left Chambéry on February 18, 2024, to drive to Scotland. Once there, we headed straight for Ben Nevis, the highest point in Scotland, to explore its wild routes.

 

Paul Blanié: This 1,345-meter mountain is the highest in the entire United Kingdom. For aficionados of the French Alps, mountaineering doesn't necessarily rhyme with an altitude barely exceeding 1,000 meters. Yet, it is the cradle of the famous Scottish mixed climbing, which many winter mountaineers have tackled! Some have never been able to reach the summit due to the often unwelcoming weather conditions. Because of its proximity to the ocean and the Arctic Circle, the windows of opportunity are uncertain and can change completely from one day to the next.

 

Ilona Serrar: In France, you avoid going into the mountains when it rains. Over there, if you wait for "good weather," you do nothing. We were well aware of this challenge but were even more apprehensive about the conditions on the routes, especially the presence or absence of ice plating. It is almost impossible to predict the state in which you will find a route. It can be in great condition the day before and become impassable after a night of storms. You have to manage to acclimatize to that kind of mindset and accept leaving with tons of doubts. You also have to accept that you are more likely to come back empty-handed than to reach the summit. We were very lucky when it came to conditions. Of course, most of the time we were battered by the wind, soaked by the rain, and deceived by the fog, but we also experienced a few moments of respite that few lucky ones encounter on this mountain.

 

Paul Blanié: Bivouacking allowed us to stay close to the faces we wanted to attempt, saving us almost 4 hours of extra travel per day and just as much saved energy! In addition to the shortened walking time, the bivouac allows you to stay on-site longer to seize the right weather window, which can change completely from one day to the next.

 

Ilona Serrar: Carrying your house on your back has something liberating about it. There’s nothing like an evening soaked (by the Scottish rain, of course) with friends!

 

Paul Blanié: Our expectations regarding the climbing conditions turned out to be true. We were treated to continuous rain for a whole day, snow to accompany another outing, as well as constant cold and wind in gusts. The advantage of this weather was the maintenance of snow and ice, which allowed us to carry out all the climbs we wanted in good conditions and complete them. In all passages, the necessary ice was formed at least enough to be usable. The snow was also present to accentuate the magical atmosphere of the place. It allowed us easy movement when it was in moderate quantity and hard, but it also slowed us down when it was fresh and abundant. A great surprise, and not the least, was the cold, perfect for climbing conditions, accompanied by unexpected sunshine in a gray and rainy Scotland!

 

Ilona Serrar: For this kind of adventure, you have to accept not controlling everything perfectly, which can sometimes be a bit complicated to manage. In those moments, the rope team is our greatest strength. Our strategy throughout the expedition was to tell ourselves: "we'll go and we'll see." We had very little information on the routes we wanted to do, whether it was the access, the itinerary, or even the conditions. There was only one way to find out more: go there. That’s how we managed to summit 4 times.

 

Timothée Nitschke: Each time, we stepped back onto this north face with just as few certainties about successfully completing our "mission" of the day. Every day was a moment of doubt. Overall, we were very lucky. Few mountaineers, during a trip to Scotland, reach the summit of every route they attempt. What was quite astonishing during this trip is that every time we climbed out at the top of Ben, the emotions were equal and ultra-powerful. What a joy to reach that summit! The first time was the discovery and the fact that we had dreamed of it so much and were finally there. The second time was the success of this historic route in the snow after a long day and the return of the cold. The third time remains for me one of the best memories of this expedition, if not the best. Arriving at the summit, there was no wind. We enjoyed the last rays of the sun sliding over the Highlands that surrounded us. This moment marked the end of a beautiful day on a route far from the beaten path that did not let itself be conquered so easily. I think that's why I go into the mountains. Thanks, friends!

 

Paul Blanié: What particularly touched me was the exit of the "Raeburn's Buttress Original" route, our last climb together as a trio. We left in the morning on what would be the hardest route of the trip. A large 500-meter chimney of snow, ice, and rock. Alone in the world, we were slowed down by the fresh snow that didn't allow us to move as fast as expected. On the route, the pitches went a little slower than we had imagined the day before. Nothing worrying, however. We emerged from the technical section around 5 PM. The joy was already there, but we still had one last snow slope before reaching the summit. Twenty minutes were needed to finish the ascent. At the summit, we were all happy. There, right in front of us, thanks to the time we had taken, like a climax to this trip and this day, the sunset over the ocean spread out. Breathtaking colors! A blue sky, red clouds in the background, the sun reflecting on the water, the snow under our feet, and the moon behind us, like a moment frozen in time. Between the relief of the end of this climb, the human adventure of this trip, and the magnificent spectacle before our eyes, the closing of this expedition could not have been more beautiful. No one could find words. They weren't useful. We looked at each other, smiling, while enjoying a simple but unforgettable moment between friends.

 

Ilona Serrar: My dear Ben, we loved spending some time in your refrigerator. We will keep the moods of your fan in our memories. Rest assured, these icy memories will be kept cool forever. Our paths are parting for new lands, but your summit remains forever engraved. Thanks to you, we made new friends. They are truly "frosted" (crazy) and we have a good laugh. We thank you for your icy lines and the missions accomplished. Who knows, maybe one day we can meet again!