SAMAYA x SYMON WELFRINGER
INSIGHTS ON PREPARING FOR HIS EXPEDITION TO PAKISTAN
Following his spectacular ascent of the Grandes Jorasses in February 2023, mountaineer Symon Welfringer is off to take on a new challenge in Pakistan. Ahead of his trip, Symon shares with us the genesis of this project, how he is preparing for it, and what motivates him to constantly push his limits.
What inspired you to embark on this expedition to Pakistan?
Symon Welfringer: We are a team of 4 heading to Pakistan at the end of June, with Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach, 2 friends I already went to Greenland with in 2021, and François Cazzanelli. We are going to a mountain, the Baintha Brakk, nicknamed "The Ogre." Its main summit, at 7200 meters, has been climbed twice, but its east summit, at 7300 meters, is completely untouched. What is special is its southeast pillar, which truly follows the ridgeline and offers some really great climbing pitches. It’s a very wild place, so it’s one of those routes that people dream about. I’ve had this project in mind for a while.
This ascent involves spending several nights on the cliff face. How have you planned to organize your bivouac?
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SW: It’s much less steep than the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, so we hope it can work with two two-person tents, because sleeping up there without a tent is a bit complicated. The idea is to be able to use the tents as much as possible to protect ourselves and counter the wind, which is very present at altitude, as well as the cold.
We hope you will have enough space to set up your bivouac. Regarding your progress on this expedition, how do you see it unfolding?
SW: For the first 15 days, we will be on the Choktoi Glacier and we will gradually gain altitude to try to acclimatize, up to 6000-6500 meters. We will take skis and go via fairly easy routes. The idea is to sleep at least once at 6500 meters before starting the route. We then hope to be able to complete the ascent in 4 days.
Do you have any apprehensions about this expedition? Do you feel any limits?
SW: I think things don't always work out. That’s also where it becomes dangerous, when you become overly confident. When I returned from Pakistan with Pierrick and we had won the Piolet d'Or, that was when I had an accident ice climbing. I think I was too confident. Now I feel I have a bit of experience, so I know that potentially it might not work, but on the other hand, deep down, I want it to work so much. Maybe it’s also that sometimes I’ve left with too many questions. How do you explain that to your loved ones, your friends, your girlfriend? It’s extremely complex. That’s where I ask myself what motivates me, despite the risks. It’s not for the glory, but really for the adventure, the sensations I feel out there. Even if the weather is bad and I’m in my tent watching Netflix series, in the depths of a glacier, that’s what drives me.
