Winning Backhand
First ascent of the south face of Sani Pakkush (6,953 m, Pakistan)
Symon Welfringer & Pierrick Fine
SANI PAKKUSH – KARAKORAM – 2020
Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine, members of the Samaya Family, look back on their latest achievement in Pakistan, which was awarded a 2021 Piolet d'Or. This success takes on particular significance when you consider the number of people who signed up to head out in the autumn and, ultimately, how few were lucky enough to do so. In fact, of the three known expeditions in 2020, only two reached the coveted summit: Sani Pakkush, by Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine, and K6, by Jeffrey and Priti Wright, which also involved opening a new route. These two successful expeditions were both equipped by Samaya.
Samaya was eager to find out more…
How did you manage to go on an expedition this year?
Symon Welfringer (S.W.): In the autumn, I always try to go on an expedition: it's a tradition. This time of year is dedicated to big climbs in the Himalayas. This season, we wanted to go to Nepal, but the pandemic decided otherwise. We were forced to change our plans at the last minute, two weeks before our departure. Choices were limited. The only country that opened its doors to us was Pakistan. Once the destination was confirmed, we had to find a new goal in a very short time. We were looking for a peak around 7,000 meters to perfect our high-altitude experience. With the help of "Fatmap" and "Google Earth," our sights finally landed on Sani Pakkush, which stands at 6,953 meters. A summit that had only been reached once before by a German team in 1991, and whose immense south face was still untouched. This year, there were only three international expeditions in the Himalayas. In addition to COVID-19, this is also because in the autumn in the Karakoram, the weather is far from as stable as it is in Nepal. As for the cold and winter, they can arrive sooner than expected. Even more than usual, we set off on this adventure with a fair amount of uncertainty!
Pierrick Fine (P.F.): Basically, Symon and I were in two separate French teams, each, of course, with different climbing goals. Both teams wanted to head to the Himalayas. Nepal finally closed its doors and forced us to rethink our strategy. We all contacted each other to try to bounce back, form new rope teams, and try to make it happen. In the end, some of our companions didn't want to take the risk of potential failure linked to the unpredictable Pakistani weather in the autumn. Others were held back by family commitments. In the end, Symon and I were the only two left wanting to take a gamble!
Was it the right choice?
S.W.: By choosing the Batura massif, we were looking for a form of isolation. Upon our arrival, luckily, the snow and mixed conditions on the south face were fairly good. We had scouted several logical lines beforehand, but by observing the "movements" of the mountain, we quite quickly dropped the idea of the central spur. Not fully protected from serac falls, it would have taken us far too much time anyway. We therefore focused on a line feasible in alpine style, to be climbed in "one push," in order to take full advantage of the short weather windows that Pakistan offers. We were also looking for a line that would be protected from objective risks (avalanches and icefall). As soon as possible, we focused on acclimatization. Although effective, it couldn't be optimal because the accessible peaks around our base camp only reached a maximum of 5,400 meters. As soon as the first favorable weather window opened, we headed into the face.
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P.F.: Before leaving, we had imagined plans A, but also B, C, and even D. For me, agility is part of mountaineering: this adaptation is inherent to the mountains, and it is the mountains that set the rules. Choosing our line was done based on safety and the thermometer. Indeed, as soon as we arrived at base camp, it was already cold. Ultimately, the mountain conditions but also the weather were good. This is the second time Symon has "bluffed" me with his weather forecasts. The first time, at the "Pic Sans Nom," he announced, wearing his "forecaster's hat," that the wind would stop at 8 a.m. Between 7 and 8 a.m., we went from a storm to a dead calm, all with disconcerting precision. For Pakistan, he had spotted the passage of a large depression before our departure—a kind of monsoon that signaled a real window of good weather to come. Once again, it worked!
What is beautiful and a little frightening about this type of successful expedition is that, in addition to wanting to do it again, we are now tempted to go higher and increase the incline by a few degrees.
Symon Welfringer
How did the climb go?
S.W.: We set off very early on the first day to avoid "churning" through too much snow on the lower slopes. Very quickly, we realized that the snow and ice conditions were excellent. We were in the right place at the right time and with the right strategy. Our choice of climbing gear was also optimal—neither too much nor too little—to cope with the seven technical, sometimes vertical, pitches that awaited us. We quickly gave up on early wake-up calls without sun. The temperature ranges were extreme, oscillating between freezing nights at -30°C on the thermometer and +20°C inside the tent in the middle of the afternoon. Without the sun, we functioned in slow motion and were completely inefficient. So we quickly adjusted our wake-up time. Another problem we had to face was the bivouacs and their not always optimal locations. On this 2,500-meter face, partially covered in snow, we had expected more options. We enjoyed only one comfortable night out of four. With the cold and our feet hanging over the void, some nights were not very restorative. But even with just one pole, our assault tent fully performed its function. It wasn't until the last bivouac at 6,400 meters that we enjoyed a bit of comfort. The next day, after a decent night's sleep, we chose to go light and fast toward the summit. Slowed down by deep snow and the altitude, we had to dig deep within ourselves to stand balanced on the ridge of our dreams. At the summit, we found what we came looking for: a mixture of emotion and frozen tears.
P.F.: For me, there were four highlights. The first, quite frightening, was the huge "spindrift" that hit us in the first pitch. As soon as the first rays of sun appeared, the face began to purge itself; in the heart of the couloir, we were exposed. This small avalanche tore Symon's backpack and nearly put an end to the climb. The second was the second bivouac in "survival" mode, to which we had to adapt. Symon was sitting on a rock, feet in the void, with the tent as a makeshift shelter. As for me, I managed in hammock mode, under the stars and supported only by a small bunch of webbing, "homemade." This night cost us a lot in terms of fatigue and cold. The next day, after barely two hours of climbing, we stopped to rest and warm up. The third is a happy memory. I can still see Symon full of enthusiasm on an incredible ice pitch that he led on the second day of the climb. His enthusiasm was truly contagious. Fourth and finally, I will long hold onto the image of those immense walls of snow mushrooms through which we had to weave our way on the summit ridge. This fantastic rollercoaster ride, combined with a breathtaking view of the two valleys our ridge separated, remains among the highlights of our journey.
What roles did your two base camp and assault tents play during this expedition?
S.W.: At base camp, we were faced with bad weather and heavy snowfall. The Samaya BASECAMP from the 8K range fulfilled its role perfectly. Honestly, I don't have much to complain about regarding this 3-4 person tent, which impressed us with its technical qualities and finishes. In my opinion, no other model or brand could compete with it. With two of us, each with an apse, we were more than comfortable. The Samaya ASSAUT2 from the ULTRA range played an important role. This tent, made entirely of Dyneema®, was our only refuge between base camp and the summit. Pierrick and I were also impressed by this tent, with its almost total absence of condensation and high-quality design. Despite a partial setup with only one pole for some bivouacs, the strain on the anchor points, and the abrasion of the rocks on the floor, the tent held up really well. At less than one kilogram, it's just incredible.
P.F.: In the Samaya BASECAMP, we were always dry. The numerous accessories and storage spaces sometimes made me think of a furnished room, even if we had neither a wardrobe nor a chest of drawers! In the Samaya ASSAUT2 ULTRA, we used the safety strap almost the entire time. Here again, it seems to me that even at an altitude of 8,000 meters, I couldn't do without the accessories and the large side pockets.
When are we going back? I'm very motivated to go and see a little higher, beyond 7,000 meters. But before climbing to those altitudes on technical faces, I'd like to test my capabilities in higher but also easier terrain—why not around 8,000 meters?
Pierrick Fine
The birth of a new rope team?
S.W.: I already knew Pierrick before leaving. We had the chance to share an expedition in Pakistan two years ago with Antoine Rolle and Aurélien Vaissière. Pierrick has a "big engine" and extraordinary endurance. On the summit ridge, facing the altitude, it was he who broke trail against the wind in the fresh snow. Throughout the climb, he knew he could count on my unwavering motivation and technical skills as a climber, regardless of the terrain. Our rope team works very well because we are complementary and share the same vision. I hope this success is just the beginning of a long series.
P.F.: Symon's greatest quality is his tenacity, his willpower. Whether climbing or at altitude, he never gives up. His weather analyses are also a real plus in our strategic decisions. With a few words of encouragement, he has the ability to switch from "off" mode to "on" mode with a great capacity for remobilization. For my part, I tend to be more constant, perhaps holding out longer over time, but when the battery is dead, the machine stops.
