SAMAYA x OLI FRANCE

 

 

Driven by his "Ultimate 7" project, which aims to climb the highest peak on every continent starting from the lowest point using only human power, British explorer Oli France, following a first edition in Africa, headed to North America to travel from Death Valley to the summit of Denali in 64 days, covering over 5,700 kilometers. Back home, Oli shares his journey with us.

 

"I've been dreaming of this Ultimate 7 project for over ten years. Over the years, I kept coming back to this idea. While waiting for the right moment to start, I developed my physical and technical skills while enriching my experience. In September 2023, I took the plunge by starting from the lowest point in Africa to reach the summit of Kilimanjaro.

 

For this second phase of the project, I started from Death Valley in North America to reach the summit of Denali, a journey of 5,600 kilometers. Traveling using only human power presented challenges. The first section lasted 41 days by bike. I pedaled through Death Valley, along the U.S. West Coast, through Canada, and across Alaska. I was completely self-sufficient and wanted to do it the pure way, without support vehicles and carrying my own equipment. My bike weighed about 50 kilograms. The elevation gain added up and I struggled to make progress against the biting headwinds.

 

I remember that three or four days into the trip, my body was already broken. I was pedaling into the wind, falling behind, and questioning the whole expedition, wondering if it was even possible. During the first two weeks, I had to push through a pain barrier and try to adapt to the difficulties of the journey.

 

I had to keep a tunnel vision on the goal. I always had to see the big picture. I've been on many tough expeditions over the years and have learned that the moments when the body and mind are pushed to the limit are only temporary.

 

Yes, it's hard.

 

Yes, it means suffering.

 

Despite starting the trip with a quickly battered body and swollen tendons, after three weeks of cycling, all those problems started to disappear. For the last three weeks on the bike, I felt really strong, as if my body had adapted. This "long-haul" section of the expedition allowed my body to adjust. When I arrived at the start of the walking section at Kroto Creek, I felt in great shape.

 

However, this was the section I found the most difficult. Reaching base camp on foot was a real ordeal, as the path was so hard to navigate. 99% of mountaineers fly directly to base camp in a small plane. For me, doing it by human power alone meant doing a lot of research beforehand to try to find a route through the hills, bushes, rivers, and that immense glacier.

 

Aaron Rolph, Mike Stevenson, and Ryan Gorman joined me at that point to finish the expedition together. It took us eight days to cover 122 kilometers. During those eight days, we didn't cross paths with anyone. We were completely alone in this wilderness, populated by grizzly bears whose tracks we found just 20 meters from our tent.

 

The route was very demanding. We faced snowstorms, freezing temperatures, and encountered various wild animals like moose and bears. The walking was made tricky because we were heavily loaded with 60 kilograms distributed in our pulks and packs. This included skis, food, our Samaya tents, and our sleeping bags. One day, it took us nine hours to cover three kilometers because of the trees and bushes our gear kept snagging on, because of the constant sequence of climbs and descents, and because of crossing small cliffs on the way to the glacier. It was a very arduous process.

 

But there is always a way forward. Even when I was tripping with my pulk, and even while navigating through dangerous crevasses, I maintained absolute focus. Having the team with me helped a lot because we could support each other. If anyone had doubts, we encouraged each other, which helped keep the pace up. I often think of a metronome's rhythm, which swings left to right but is always constant. This metaphor helps me stay focused on moving forward consistently, even if it's slow, even if it's just small steps.

 

The mental aspect of this expedition relies on my past experiences. All my previous expeditions prepared me for this. I believe it's easy to become too comfortable at home. So 99% of my training is done outdoors, exposed to the elements of the British winter, the rain, the hail, the strong winds. Exposing yourself to discomfort on a daily basis helps you stay sharp and ready.

 

Having the right equipment is the second essential condition for ensuring a great expedition. Especially in the mountains: having a reliable tent is crucial. The Samaya BASECAMP was the ideal tent. There were days when we had to take shelter from storms all day long. We felt protected and safe despite extremely strong winds and heavy snowfall. This tent, which weighs only a few kilograms, offers incredible shelter in the mountains. We had to bivouac for 6 days in a row at 4,500 meters of altitude due to a snowstorm. Spending so much time in a tent can prove to be a delicate situation if it isn't reliable. For us, it wasn't a problem. As soon as the weather calmed down, we went out to clear the snow and build snow walls to protect ourselves. Otherwise, we stayed in the tent playing cards, cooking, eating, drinking, and preparing for the rest of the journey. I couldn't imagine a better shelter for the four of us.

 

Once the storm had calmed, we were able to launch our final push and reach the summit of Denali, at 6,190 meters above sea level. The sensations we felt up there were indescribable. Yet, they weren't the ones that left the biggest mark on me.

 

One particular day approaching base camp remains etched in my memory. After crossing the most difficult parts, we arrived on the glacier with base camp in sight. The sun was shining, we were deep in the Alaskan wilderness. We hadn't seen anyone for days. We were pushing on, doing well as a team, everyone was feeling good, and we were filled with a sense of euphoria that rarely happens. It was an incredible feeling. These are the moments in life we leave for, into the wild. These are the moments printed in time that leave a special flavor to our memories."

 

©Photographs by Aaron Rolph @aaronrolph