SAMAYA x ERIC CARTER
THE IMPORTANCE OF TURNING BACK IN THE HIGH MOUNTAINS
Eric Carter, Max Kroneck, Brian Burger, and Pat Valade traveled to the Alaska Range in the spring of 2024 to carve lines into the dizzying faces of these isolated massifs. With weather conditions not always on their side, the four friends had to make decisions about when to push forward and when to turn back.
“Last spring, I found myself with my three partners and ten days of supplies and fuel, heading toward an isolated glacier in the Alaska Range. This was not at all what we had planned. Originally, we were supposed to set up our base camp in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia. But, in the weeks leading up to our departure, the snowpack had thinned and was melting rapidly. The routes we hoped to climb and ski were now nothing more than bare ice. So, just a few days before our departure, we decided to change everything and head North to Alaska.
Arriving on the Eldridge Glacier, we could see the great Alaskan peaks like Denali. We were alone; no other group was present in the basin. A departing group shared information with us about the previous week’s conditions: ten days of sun and high pressure. Our weather forecast wasn't quite as favorable, but we hoped it would allow us to achieve our goals. The glacier was firm and the slopes were icy. It was exactly the combination we were trying to avoid in British Columbia.
Alaska, the land of the midnight sun, was disorienting. I never needed to turn on my headlamp. Going to bed under a bright sun meant wearing a sleep mask covered by a neck gaiter. All the slopes were facing the sun—we couldn't rely on North-facing slopes to escape the crust. I even had trouble determining which direction was North!
Storms here can be intense, and all our gear must be securely fastened and capable of withstanding violent weather conditions! We were sleeping in prototype four-person Samaya tents, a sort of variation of the Samaya BASECAMP that has been my pillar in recent years. This prototype includes everything I look for in a tent: a lightweight, compact single-wall design with enough interior space to be comfortable, even with several people and all our gear.
Our progress in the mountains was slow. Along the ridges, we were walking on unstable snow layers that were thinner than expected. This thin layer made the ascent frightening and somewhat dampened our enthusiasm. We eventually decided to climb only on stable, rocky faces. We moved very cautiously, and as soon as we tried to aim higher, the mountain brought us back to reality. We triggered an avalanche while trying to cross a ridge and had to lower our expectations.
As the trip went on, we felt like our bigger goals were slipping away. We had still skied some fantastic lines, though not the most impressive ones, and we knew that the days to accomplish those were running out quickly. As we considered one final attempt at one of the big peaks, we were torn. The conditions were clearly not ideal, and the weather forecast was uncertain. We all wanted to aim high, but we had doubts. Max prompted us to ask ourselves: to succeed on ski routes at our limits (or climbs, for that matter), we all had to be fully motivated and on the same page. We needed to have the same risk tolerance and the same desire. If the team isn’t coherent, it’s unreasonable to aim for the biggest goals. That made our decision much easier: we spent our last day freeriding on a ridge that had been overlooking our camp since the start of the week. Great snow, good friends—what more could you ask for?
Even without skiing the most ambitious line, our trip was a true success. Each day, we explored a new area and skied different lines, while getting familiar with the logistics needed for an expedition in this part of the Alaska Range. We discovered vast terrain and added to our list of places to explore in the future. What’s even better is that all four of us returned home still getting along well!
It’s always difficult to choose between returning to a place you know and heading off to discover somewhere new. That was precisely the dilemma of this trip: stay in British Columbia or head elsewhere in Alaska. I enjoy repeat trips to explore a place I’m getting to know more deeply, but I also love discovering unknown places. I don’t know which is better, but I’m thrilled to know that wherever I go, I will feel safe during a stormy night, warm and snug in my Samaya tent.”
© Photographs by Pat Valade
