SAMAYA x ED HANNAM

 

 

Ed Hannam, Marco Del Vecchio, Benji Brennan, and Alex Tang are mountaineers treading on previously unexplored mountains, discovering remote areas of the Chinese Himalayas. In December 2023, they attempted to reach the summit of Tchiburongi, at an altitude of nearly 6,000 meters. Ed shares the difficulties of the terrain on this neglected mountain.

 

"Our driving challenge is to climb a long distance on the northern slope of the Himalayas in winter, on the Chinese side, in total autonomy. Sometimes we use horses, but we don't hire porters. This first trip was exploratory in nature, to better understand the terrain, see what the snow looks like, and assess the state of the glaciers.

 

Due to the political climate, no one goes to this area. We are the only team in the northern Himalayas during winter; even Chinese teams don't venture here. Being alone in an unknown place is a strange sensation. We really like it; we are possessed by a great thirst for discovery and are ready to push our limits in this inhospitable terrain. Upon our arrival, the degradation of the glaciers was blatant. Discovering this spectacle sent shivers down our spines, but it did not diminish our desire for the summit.

 

We identified two main routes leading to the summit of Tchiburongi, at nearly 6,000 meters. This peak is located in the Minya Konka massif, unknown to most mountaineers who prefer to go to Nepal or Pakistan. As China was closed for a long time, no one really knows what is there. The only way to get information is to go there and discover it gradually. It is a place that is evolving very quickly: the accessibility of the roads, the possibility of using horses—all of this is very recent.

 

The unique aspect of this area is being able to complete initial acclimatization in the heart of cities that are already at a very high altitude. We can drive up to 5,000 meters and enjoy espresso bars at that altitude. Acclimatization is much more effective, allowing for better, faster climbing, and ultimately the potential to take on more difficult routes.

 

At this time of year, the days are very short. We spend nearly 14 hours a day in darkness, which required some time for adaptation and field logistics before we could pursue our goal.

 

Our first attempt led us to target two summits, Melcyr and Lamoshe: one to acclimatize and another at a higher altitude. But once on site, the conditions proved very harsh. We could not progress on the glacier because the melting ice had gradually given way to previously covered rocks, piled one on top of the other, forming vast holes. With our heavy, bulky packs, the ascent proved too difficult and too dangerous. We turned back to attempt another route, but we eventually found ourselves in even more delicate conditions.

 

Once our bodies and minds were rested, we set off again for a second attempt on another route toward a path we could see not far from the north ridge. We began our ascent but very quickly ran out of time. We were moving slowly and with difficulty, more so than we had imagined. Time was flying and it was extremely cold! On this north face, we never saw the sun. As a pair, we could not carry everything we needed to spend more time on this traverse. We were forced to turn back.

 

We made repeated attempts, but our methods still lacked refinement. However, the sections of climbing we were able to complete were incredible, on the very cold and steep slopes of that north face.

 

We leave this massif and the unfinished goal behind. We are returning in March with the experience already gained. The terrain will undoubtedly have evolved further, but our determination will remain unchanged. We will rely on our Samaya equipment again. The lightness of our tents allows us to save grams that we can convert into extra food or fuel. The total load doesn't get lighter, but the distribution of weight is much better. In this type of expedition, this equipment makes a big difference.

 

Ultimately, I think these places are the future of mountaineering. Currently, everyone goes to Nepal and Pakistan and keeps doing more or less the same thing. In ten years, other people will join us in this isolated corner.”