SAMAYA x DAMIEN LACAZE
PARAGLIDING AND MOUNTAINEERING COMBO IN THE HEART OF THE KARAKORAM
Damien Lacaze and Fabian Buhl attempted to push the limits by combining paragliding and mountaineering to conquer iconic summits such as Lady Finger and Ultar Sar. Between freezing bivouacs at 5,500 meters, temperamental weather, and impressive flights of nearly 300 km, Damien shares his fascinating account of this intense adventure and the lessons learned from an expedition full of unforgettable moments.
What were your objectives when setting off for Pakistan?
Damien Lacaze: We approached this expedition with a multitude of goals in mind. Our primary ambition was to adapt to all conditions, making the most of the possibilities offered by the Karakoram. This mountain range is renowned for its extreme aerological conditions, with updrafts sometimes reaching 8,000 meters. We hoped to achieve record flights by exploiting these powerful rising currents, which allow for faster flying at high altitude.
Another aspect of our adventure was to explore summit ascents by combining paragliding and climbing. The idea was to take off by paraglider to access the mountains, bivouac there, then climb and return by flight. We had several summits around Karimabad in mind: opening a new route on Lady Finger, attempting Diran on skis in a single day, and why not land below Ultar Sar, at over 6,500 meters, to reach the summit the following day.
Damien Lacaze: We approached this expedition with a multitude of goals in mind. Our primary ambition was to adapt to all conditions, making the most of the possibilities offered by the Karakoram. This mountain range is renowned for its extreme aerological conditions, with updrafts sometimes reaching 8,000 meters. We hoped to achieve record flights by exploiting these powerful rising currents, which allow for faster flying at high altitude.
Another aspect of our adventure was to explore summit ascents by combining paragliding and climbing. The idea was to take off by paraglider to access the mountains, bivouac there, then climb and return by flight. We had several summits around Karimabad in mind: opening a new route on Lady Finger, attempting Diran on skis in a single day, and why not land below Ultar Sar, at over 6,500 meters, to reach the summit the following day.
How did your attempts go?
DL: Unlike classic expeditions, we stayed in Karimabad, a small town offering incomparable comfort. This base allowed us to choose our daily objectives based on weather conditions, whether it was distance flights, acclimatization on neighboring peaks, alpine ascents, or even moments of relaxation like looking for crystals or renting a motorcycle.
However, this approach made us very dependent on the weather conditions. Beyond the challenges related to the mountains, we needed favorable aerological conditions to fly and land safely. This year, the conditions were particularly difficult: humid, windy, with frequent thunderstorm disturbances. We spent many hours scrutinizing forecasts, constantly changing our plans. This constant uncertainty tested our morale.
DL: Unlike classic expeditions, we stayed in Karimabad, a small town offering incomparable comfort. This base allowed us to choose our daily objectives based on weather conditions, whether it was distance flights, acclimatization on neighboring peaks, alpine ascents, or even moments of relaxation like looking for crystals or renting a motorcycle.
However, this approach made us very dependent on the weather conditions. Beyond the challenges related to the mountains, we needed favorable aerological conditions to fly and land safely. This year, the conditions were particularly difficult: humid, windy, with frequent thunderstorm disturbances. We spent many hours scrutinizing forecasts, constantly changing our plans. This constant uncertainty tested our morale.
Despite the difficulties, you managed to complete some ski-paragliding combos. Can you detail these experiences and the most striking moments?
DL: We started by acclimatizing, alternating between the comfort of the town and nights in the mountains. Since Karimabad is at 2,500 meters, we had to regularly go higher to acclimatize properly. We climbed the mountains on foot or by paraglider, landing first at 4,400 meters, then 5,000 meters, and finally 5,500 meters. The Hunza Valley offers an exceptional playground with its summits reaching up to 6,500 meters, perfect for climbing, skiing, or bivouacking.
During the acclimatization phase, we often used skis for their increased safety during takeoff in case of a tailwind. The thermals allowed us to ski couloirs spotted from the air, then take off again to return. Some nights, we would bivouac on a summit, enjoying the first rays of light to ski the East face before packing up the bivouac and returning to the valley. In the morning, we were often settled in front of an omelet and some tea, a real treat after a night at altitude!
DL: We started by acclimatizing, alternating between the comfort of the town and nights in the mountains. Since Karimabad is at 2,500 meters, we had to regularly go higher to acclimatize properly. We climbed the mountains on foot or by paraglider, landing first at 4,400 meters, then 5,000 meters, and finally 5,500 meters. The Hunza Valley offers an exceptional playground with its summits reaching up to 6,500 meters, perfect for climbing, skiing, or bivouacking.
During the acclimatization phase, we often used skis for their increased safety during takeoff in case of a tailwind. The thermals allowed us to ski couloirs spotted from the air, then take off again to return. Some nights, we would bivouac on a summit, enjoying the first rays of light to ski the East face before packing up the bivouac and returning to the valley. In the morning, we were often settled in front of an omelet and some tea, a real treat after a night at altitude!
You completed an impressive flight of nearly 300 km. What were the conditions and challenges encountered during this flight?
DL: The aerological conditions were particularly difficult to manage. Every day was marked by violent thunderstorms in the afternoon, with gusts, rain, and sometimes snowfall in the mountains. We were forced to limit our flights to short trips, returning to the valley around 2 PM. We only had one day without thunderstorms, and the thermal conditions were relatively weak with low ceilings for the region.
Nevertheless, this day allowed us to see the enormous potential of the region. We managed to cover 298 km for Fabi (Fabian Buhl) and 295 km for me. This experience confirmed that, when conditions are ideal, the region could offer flights of over 350 km in a triangle, a current world record. The main difficulty was discovering totally unknown terrain, despite our preparation. Managing airflows and constant adaptation made this experience as grueling as it was exceptional.
DL: The aerological conditions were particularly difficult to manage. Every day was marked by violent thunderstorms in the afternoon, with gusts, rain, and sometimes snowfall in the mountains. We were forced to limit our flights to short trips, returning to the valley around 2 PM. We only had one day without thunderstorms, and the thermal conditions were relatively weak with low ceilings for the region.
Nevertheless, this day allowed us to see the enormous potential of the region. We managed to cover 298 km for Fabi (Fabian Buhl) and 295 km for me. This experience confirmed that, when conditions are ideal, the region could offer flights of over 350 km in a triangle, a current world record. The main difficulty was discovering totally unknown terrain, despite our preparation. Managing airflows and constant adaptation made this experience as grueling as it was exceptional.
How were your nights in Samaya tents, particularly for your bivouacs at 5,500 meters? How important is the weight of equipment for this type of project?
DL: The Samaya tents fully satisfied us. Their light weight and compactness are essential in mountaineering, but even more so in a combo, where we have to carry all our equipment while flying. The ability to compact the tents was a real asset for optimizing space and minimizing weight.
Setting up the tents, their wind resistance, and their ability to retain heat despite the freezing exterior temperatures were also highly appreciated. At 5,500 meters, it is extremely cold at night, and the ability to maintain some heat inside is a real comfort.
DL: The Samaya tents fully satisfied us. Their light weight and compactness are essential in mountaineering, but even more so in a combo, where we have to carry all our equipment while flying. The ability to compact the tents was a real asset for optimizing space and minimizing weight.
Setting up the tents, their wind resistance, and their ability to retain heat despite the freezing exterior temperatures were also highly appreciated. At 5,500 meters, it is extremely cold at night, and the ability to maintain some heat inside is a real comfort.
You mentioned some disappointment at not having completed all your projects, while being grateful for the experiences lived. What lessons do you draw from this expedition and what message do you wish to convey to readers?
DL: Luck is not always on our side! Six years ago, my first visit to Pakistan offered me exceptional flying conditions. This year, although we were fit and motivated, we faced the worst start to summer in several years. We still had a virgin summit in reserve, and working with Fabi was a huge pleasure. It is frustrating not to have had the chance to complete everything we planned, but it is the mountain that decides.
Expeditions like this are a mixture of success and learning. Those who had the patience to wait for a more favorable window were eventually able to take advantage of it. We, unfortunately, did not have that flexibility. But we will return, because every experience is an opportunity to learn and come back stronger.
DL: Luck is not always on our side! Six years ago, my first visit to Pakistan offered me exceptional flying conditions. This year, although we were fit and motivated, we faced the worst start to summer in several years. We still had a virgin summit in reserve, and working with Fabi was a huge pleasure. It is frustrating not to have had the chance to complete everything we planned, but it is the mountain that decides.
Expeditions like this are a mixture of success and learning. Those who had the patience to wait for a more favorable window were eventually able to take advantage of it. We, unfortunately, did not have that flexibility. But we will return, because every experience is an opportunity to learn and come back stronger.
