SAMAYA x LUKA STRAŽAR
ATTEMPT TO CONQUER THE SOUTH-WEST FACE OF KAMET
©Photograph by Nejc Marcic @marcicnejc
In October 2023, Slovenian alpinist and climber Luka Stražar, accompanied by Nejc Marčič and Martin Žumer, attempted to open a new route on the inhospitable south-west face of Kamet, in India. Despite the boldness of the Slovenian team, their attempt was unsuccessful this time. Weather conditions and the difficulties of the terrain are all factors that make this objective nearly unreachable. For Samaya, Luka recounts their adventure.
“Kamet dominates the landscape above the Gastholi glacier, with its 7,700 meters of altitude. Its pyramidal shape makes it an obvious objective. However, this mountain is particularly little-trodden, as an expedition must obtain authorizations from numerous institutions to get a permit. This task was a first challenge for me.
Our goal was to climb a new route in alpine style on the south-west face.
Acclimatization went well, even though as soon as we arrived at base camp, we quickly realized that conditions were dry, far from ideal. Weather events in previous months had brought rain up to 6,500 meters, leaving bare rock and eroded terrain as consequences in areas where we had hoped for snow and ice conditions.
When we finished acclimatization and felt ready for the attempt, temperatures dropped significantly. We had to make a difficult decision and give up on our objective.
Marko and Gregor decided to try Mukut Parbat, but were stopped by fresh snow and low temperatures. Nejc, Martin, and I opted for a much less ambitious 6,000-meter peak above base camp. We managed to climb it via a new route, which was fun despite the cold.
©Photograph by Nejc Marcic @marcicnejc
Even though conditions were particularly harsh, the sunsets during acclimatization were true treasures. We were lucky to be well set up for the night. It’s always fun with Nejc and Martin and I am happy to have been accompanied by Samaya. The white shade of the Samaya RADICAL3 was very pleasant, diffusing natural light inside the tent. It was the first time I used Samaya equipment and I am impressed by its lightness and durability. I am happy that this is my first thought when I think of Samaya. Sometimes, the weather offered us a gift, in the form of good visibility. With our gaze, we traveled from the Indian lowlands to the snowy mountains, all the way to the mysterious distant Tibetan plains.
Now, back home, I see this project as a psychologically difficult moment. I suppose all unsuccessful trips have that kind of aftertaste. It is the game of alpinism and it makes success all the sweeter.
So, in the end, everything is fine.”
©Photograph by Nejc Marcic @marcicnejc
