SAMAYA x LUKA STRAŽAR
ATTEMPT TO CONQUER THE SOUTHWEST FACE OF KAMET
©Photography by Nejc Marcic @marcicnejc
In October 2023, Slovenian mountaineer and climber Luka Stražar, accompanied by Nejc Marčič and Martin Žumer, attempted to open a new route on the inhospitable southwest face of Kamet, India. Despite the Slovenian team's daring, their attempt failed this time. Weather conditions and difficult terrain made this goal virtually unattainable. For Samaya, Luka recounts their adventure.
"The Kamet dominates the landscape above the Gastholi glacier, with its 7700 meters of altitude. Its pyramidal shape makes it an obvious goal. However, this mountain is particularly little trodden, as an expedition has to obtain authorizations from numerous institutions to get a permit. This was my first challenge.
Our aim was to climb a new alpine-style route on the south-west face.
Acclimatization went well, although as soon as we arrived at base camp, we quickly realized that conditions were dry, far from ideal. The weather events of the previous months had brought rain up to 6500 metres, leaving bare rock and eroded terrain in areas where we had hoped for snow and ice conditions.
When we had finished acclimatizing and felt ready for the attempt, the temperatures dropped considerably. We had to make a difficult decision and give up our objective.
Marko and Gregor decided to try Mukut Parbat, but were stopped by fresh snow and low temperatures. Nejc, Martin and I opted for a much less ambitious 6000-meter summit above base camp. We managed to climb it via a new route, which was fun despite the cold.
©Photography by Nejc Marcic @marcicnejc
Although the conditions were particularly harsh, the sunsets during acclimatization were real treasures. We were lucky enough to be well set up for the night. It's always fun with Nejc and Martin, and I'm glad to have been accompanied by Samaya. The white tint of the Samaya RADICAL3 was very pleasant, diffusing a natural light inside the tent. This was my first time using the Samaya equipment and I'm impressed by its lightness and durability. I'm glad this is my first thought when I think of Samaya. Sometimes, the weather offered us a gift, in the form of good visibility. With our eyes, we traveled from the Indian lowlands to the snow-capped mountains, to the mysterious Tibetan plains far away.
Now, back home, I see this project as a psychologically difficult moment. I suppose all unsuccessful trips have that kind of aftertaste. That's the game of mountaineering, and it makes success all the sweeter.
So, in the end, everything's fine.
©Photography by Nejc Marcic @marcicnejc
