SAMAYA x TOM LIVINGSTONE
THE CHALLENGE OF THE UNEXPLORED K7 CENTRAL
©Photo credits: Tad McCrea - @mccreaphoto
Tom Livingstone and his climbing partner, Tad McCrea, spent seven weeks in the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan in August 2023, attempting to open a route on the K7 Central, at an altitude of nearly 7,000 meters. The weather conditions were not on their side, forcing them to turn back just 150 meters from the summit. For Samaya, Tom reflects on this historic attempt.
The K7 Central, one of the highest and most difficult mountains to climb in the region, is located in the remote Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. Rising to 6,850 meters, it presents a major challenge due to its isolation, extreme conditions, thinning oxygen, and freezing temperatures, in addition to its technical difficulty. It is a demanding summit and a significant challenge for the few seasoned mountaineers who have attempted it.
Tom and Tad's expedition followed a handful of previous attempts, notably those of the famous duo Pitri and Jeff Wright in 2022 and 2023, who had to abandon their efforts just 100 meters below the summit. Each of these expeditions has contributed to cementing the K7 Central's reputation as a mountain of near-insurmountable difficulty, demanding the very best from mountaineers.
Tom, a renowned British mountaineer, is driven by the pursuit of authentic challenges, placing values of simplicity and direct engagement with the mountain at the core of his endeavors. He climbs in alpine style, favoring lightness and speed. He has pushed his limits multiple times and has left his mark on mountaineering history, notably by summiting Latok I with Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar in 2019, an achievement honored with a Piolet d’Or, as well as the ascent of the northeast pillar of Tengkangpoche in Nepal in 2021, where many mountaineers had previously failed.
©Photo credits: Tad McCrea - @mccreaphoto
“I had heard a lot about the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan: it offers a playground of high-quality routes and solid granite. It seemed perfect for Tad and me to head there. We wanted to open a new technical route on the K7 Central, in alpine style. It's a type of climbing I love, involving difficult pitches of steep ice, mixed terrain, and rock, all at high altitude. To succeed, or at least make a good attempt, you need a high level of proficiency in all climbing disciplines.
We first acclimatized and spent two nights on Solu Peak at 6,050 meters, using our Samaya tent, in which we slept quite well despite the short nights, sometimes disturbed by wind and snowfall.
©Photo credits: Tad McCrea - @mccreaphoto
Then, we set off to climb the unexplored summit, the K7 Central. We began the ascent of the south face of the K7 and enjoyed steep ice slopes (around WI5+) and welcoming spots for relatively comfortable bivouacs over four days. We were able to climb several pitches at a time—such a gift is rare in the mountains. We were constantly adapting to our environment and had to change our objectives several times based on the weather conditions. Unfortunately, the window forecasted as favorable proved to be very inaccurate, with snowfall every day and rapidly changing weather.
©Photo credits: Tad McCrea - @mccreaphoto
We reached the base of the K7 Central on the fourth day. It is an impressive, highly aesthetic granite spire that would be ideal if dry and snow-free. Unfortunately, a thick layer of snow covered the face.
On the fifth day, we started the final part of the climb, but despite all our efforts, we had to turn back, so close to the goal, as the weather made the operation too dangerous.
Our return flights were fast approaching and conditions were not going to improve. We were frustrated not to reach the summit, but that's sometimes how it goes when chasing a big goal. Many stars have to align. We pushed hard, facing bad weather, changing conditions, and route-finding challenges, but we had to face the facts and ensure we could descend safely.
I will remember this as a very formative experience that helped prepare me for future projects; it gave me more energy and motivation, and I plan to return to Charakusa one day.”
