SAMAYA x TIMOTHÉE NITSCHKE

 

 

In the middle of winter, Timothée Nitschke, Ilona Serrar and Paul Blanié set out to climb Ben Nevis in Scotland. Despite the capricious weather, the cold and the constant wind, the three friends pulled out all the stops, driven by their passion for mountaineering and the strength of their rope party. For Samaya, they look back on ten icy days.

 

Ilona Serrar: Driven by boundless energy, a desire to travel and a need for adventure, we decided to get off the beaten track. For us, there's no need to travel to the other side of the world or take long-haul flights: a Dacia Sandero and an icy mountain will suffice. We left Chambéry on February 18, 2024 to drive to Scotland. Once there, we headed for Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest peak, to explore its wild lines.

 

Paul Blanié: At 1345 metres, this is the highest mountain in the UK. For aficionados of the French Alps, mountaineering doesn't necessarily rhyme with an altitude of just over 1,000 meters. And yet, it's the birthplace of the famous Scottish mixed, which many a winter climber has tried their hand at! Some have never made it to the summit due to the often unwelcoming weather conditions. Because of its proximity to the ocean and the Arctic Circle, the time slots are uncertain and can vary from one day to the next.

 

Ilona Serrar: In France, you avoid going into the mountains when it's raining. Over there, if you wait for "good weather", you don't do anything. We were well aware of this issue, but we were even more apprehensive about the conditions on the routes, particularly the presence or absence of veneer. It's virtually impossible to predict the state in which you'll find a route. It may be in great condition the day before, but no longer be practicable after a stormy night. You have to acclimatize yourself to this kind of thinking and accept that you're going to set off with tons of doubts. You also have to accept that you're more likely to come back empty-handed than to reach the summit. We were extremely lucky as far as conditions were concerned. Sure, most of the time we got slapped by the wind, drowned by the rain and cheated by the fog, but we also experienced a few moments of respite that few lucky people experience on this mountain.

 

Paul Blanié: Bivouacking enabled us to stay close to the faces we wanted to attempt, saving us almost 4 extra hours of outings per day and just as much unspent energy! In addition to the shorter walking time, the bivouac means we can stay longer to catch the right weather window, which can change completely from one day to the next.

 

Ilona Serrar: There's something liberating about carrying your house on your back. There's nothing like an evening of drinking (in the Scottish rain, of course) with friends!

 

Paul Blanié: Our expectations of the conditions turned out to be correct. We had continuous rain for a whole day, snow to accompany another outing and continuous, gusty wind and cold. The advantage of this weather was that it kept the snow and ice in place, so we were able to complete all the outings we wanted to in good conditions. In all passages, the necessary ice had formed at least sufficiently to be able to exploit it. The snow was also there to accentuate the magical atmosphere. It was easy to use when it was medium and hard, but slowed us down when it was fresh and in large quantities. One big surprise, and not the least, was the cold weather, perfect for climbing conditions, accompanied by sunshine unexpected in a Scotland that looks grey and rainy!

 

Ilona Serrar: For this kind of adventure, you have to accept that you can't master everything perfectly, which can sometimes be a bit complicated to manage. At times like these, the team is our greatest strength. Our strategy throughout the expedition was to say to ourselves: "Let's go and see". We had very little information about the routes we wanted to do, in terms of access, itinerary or conditions. There was only one way to find out more: get out there. That's how we managed to do the summit 4 times.

 

Timothée Nitschke: Each time we set foot on this north face, we were just as unsure of whether we'd be able to complete our "mission" for the day. Every day was a moment of doubt. All in all, we were very lucky. It's a rare mountaineer who, during a trip to Scotland, makes it to the top of every route he undertakes. What was amazing about this trip was that every time we got to the top of the Ben, the emotions were equal and ultra-powerful. What a joy it was to reach the summit! The first time, it was the discovery and the fact that we'd dreamed of it so long and were finally there. The second time was the success of this historic route under the snow after a long day and the return of the cold. For me, the third time was one of the best memories of the expedition, if not the best. When we reached the summit, there was no wind. We basked in the last rays of sunshine as they glided over the surrounding Highlands. It was the end of a beautiful day on a route that was far off the beaten track and not so easy to get to grips with. I think it's for moments like that that I get into the mountains. Thanks guys!

 

Paul Blanié: What particularly touched me was the "Raeburn's Buttress Original" route, our last outing as a trio. We set off in the morning on what was to be the hardest route of the trip. A huge 500-meter chimney in snow, ice and rock. Alone in the world, we were slowed down by the fresh snow, which meant we couldn't go as fast as we'd planned. On the route, the pitches went by a little more slowly than we'd imagined the day before. Nothing to worry about though. We emerged from the technical section at around 5pm. The joy was already there, but we still had one last slope of snow before reaching the summit. Twenty minutes were needed to finish the climb. At the summit, we were all happy. There, right in front of us, thanks to the time we had taken, like a climax to this trip and this day, was the sunset over the ocean. Breathtaking colors! Blue sky, red clouds in the background, the sun reflecting off the water, snow beneath our feet and the moon behind us, like a moment frozen in time. Between the relief at the end of this outing, the human adventure of this trip and the grandiose spectacle before our eyes, the closing of this expedition could not have been more beautiful. No one could find words. They were useless. We looked at each other, smiling as we enjoyed a simple but unforgettable moment with our friends.

 

Ilona Serrar: My dear Ben, we loved spending time in your refrigerator. We'll never forget your fan's moods. Rest assured, its icy memories will forever be kept cool. Our paths have parted for new lands, but your summit remains forever engraved. Thanks to you, we've made some new friends. They're really frosty and we're having a great time. We thank you for your icy lines and your missions. Who knows, maybe one day we'll get together again!