SAMAYA x DAMIEN LACAZE
PARAGLIDING AND MOUNTAINEERING COMBO IN THE HEART OF THE KARAKORAM
Damien Lacaze and Fabian Buhl combined paragliding and mountaineering to conquer iconic peaks such as Lady Finger and Ultar Sar. Between icy bivouacs at 5,500 meters, capricious weather, and impressive flights of almost 300 km, Damien shares his fascinating account of this intense adventure and the lessons learned from an expedition full of unforgettable moments.
What were your objectives when you set off for Pakistan?
Damien Lacaze: We approached this expedition with a multitude of objectives in mind. Our first ambition was to adapt to all conditions, making the most of the possibilities offered by the Karakoram. This massif is renowned for its extreme aerological conditions, with ascents sometimes reaching 8,000 metres. We hoped to achieve record flights by exploiting these powerful updrafts, which enable us to fly faster at high altitudes.
Another aspect of our adventure was to explore summit climbing by combining paragliding and rock climbing. The idea was to take off by paraglider to access the mountains, bivouac there, then climb and fly back. We had several peaks around Karimabad in mind: opening a new route at Lady Finger, attempting Diran on skis during the day, and why not land below Ultar Sar, at over 6,500 metres, to reach the summit the following day.
Damien Lacaze: We approached this expedition with a multitude of objectives in mind. Our first ambition was to adapt to all conditions, making the most of the possibilities offered by the Karakoram. This massif is renowned for its extreme aerological conditions, with ascents sometimes reaching 8,000 metres. We hoped to achieve record flights by exploiting these powerful updrafts, which enable us to fly faster at high altitudes.
Another aspect of our adventure was to explore summit climbing by combining paragliding and rock climbing. The idea was to take off by paraglider to access the mountains, bivouac there, then climb and fly back. We had several peaks around Karimabad in mind: opening a new route at Lady Finger, attempting Diran on skis during the day, and why not land below Ultar Sar, at over 6,500 metres, to reach the summit the following day.
How did your attempts go?
DL: Unlike conventional expeditions, we stayed in Karimabad, a small town offering incomparable comfort. This base allowed us to choose our daily objectives according to the weather conditions, whether they were distance flights, acclimatization on nearby peaks, alpine ascents, or even moments of relaxation like looking for crystals or renting a motorcycle.
However, this approach made us highly dependent on the weather. In addition to the challenges of the mountains, we needed favorable aerological conditions to fly and land safely. This year, conditions were particularly difficult: wet, windy, with frequent stormy disturbances. We spent many hours scrutinizing the forecasts, constantly modifying our plans. This constant uncertainty tested our morale.
DL: Unlike conventional expeditions, we stayed in Karimabad, a small town offering incomparable comfort. This base allowed us to choose our daily objectives according to the weather conditions, whether they were distance flights, acclimatization on nearby peaks, alpine ascents, or even moments of relaxation like looking for crystals or renting a motorcycle.
However, this approach made us highly dependent on the weather. In addition to the challenges of the mountains, we needed favorable aerological conditions to fly and land safely. This year, conditions were particularly difficult: wet, windy, with frequent stormy disturbances. We spent many hours scrutinizing the forecasts, constantly modifying our plans. This constant uncertainty tested our morale.
Despite the difficulties, you've managed to pull off a few ski-paragliding combinations. Can you tell us more about these experiences and the most memorable moments?
DL: We started by acclimatizing, alternating between the comfort of the city and nights in the mountains. As Karimabad is at 2,500 meters, we regularly had to climb higher to acclimatize properly. We climbed the mountains on foot or by paraglider, landing first at 4,400 meters, then 5,000 meters, and finally 5,500 meters. The Hunza valley offers an exceptional playground with peaks up to 6,500 meters, perfect for climbing, skiing or bivouacking.
During the acclimatization phase, we often used skis for their added safety when taking off into tailwinds. Thermals enabled us to ski the corridors we'd spotted from the air, then take off again to return. Some nights, we would bivouac on a summit, taking advantage of the first rays to ski the east face before packing up the bivouac and returning to the valley. In the mornings, we were often seated in front of an omelette and a cup of tea, a real pleasure after a night at altitude!
DL: We started by acclimatizing, alternating between the comfort of the city and nights in the mountains. As Karimabad is at 2,500 meters, we regularly had to climb higher to acclimatize properly. We climbed the mountains on foot or by paraglider, landing first at 4,400 meters, then 5,000 meters, and finally 5,500 meters. The Hunza valley offers an exceptional playground with peaks up to 6,500 meters, perfect for climbing, skiing or bivouacking.
During the acclimatization phase, we often used skis for their added safety when taking off into tailwinds. Thermals enabled us to ski the corridors we'd spotted from the air, then take off again to return. Some nights, we would bivouac on a summit, taking advantage of the first rays to ski the east face before packing up the bivouac and returning to the valley. In the mornings, we were often seated in front of an omelette and a cup of tea, a real pleasure after a night at altitude!
You completed an impressive flight of almost 300 km. What were the conditions and challenges encountered on this flight?
DL: The aerological conditions were particularly difficult to manage. Every day was marked by violent afternoon thunderstorms, with gusts of wind, rain and sometimes snowfall in the mountains. We were forced to keep our flights short, returning to the valley around 2pm. We only had one day without thunderstorms, and thermal conditions were relatively weak with low ceilings for the region.
Nevertheless, it was a day that allowed us to see the region's enormous potential. We managed to cover 298 km for Fabi (Fabian Buhl) and 295 km for me. This experience confirmed that, when conditions are ideal, the region could offer triangle flights of over 350 km, a current world record. The main difficulty was to discover a totally unknown terrain, despite our preparation. Airflow management and constant adaptation made this experience as challenging as it was exceptional.
DL: The aerological conditions were particularly difficult to manage. Every day was marked by violent afternoon thunderstorms, with gusts of wind, rain and sometimes snowfall in the mountains. We were forced to keep our flights short, returning to the valley around 2pm. We only had one day without thunderstorms, and thermal conditions were relatively weak with low ceilings for the region.
Nevertheless, it was a day that allowed us to see the region's enormous potential. We managed to cover 298 km for Fabi (Fabian Buhl) and 295 km for me. This experience confirmed that, when conditions are ideal, the region could offer triangle flights of over 350 km, a current world record. The main difficulty was to discover a totally unknown terrain, despite our preparation. Airflow management and constant adaptation made this experience as challenging as it was exceptional.
How did you spend your nights in tents Samaya, especially when bivouacking at 5,500 meters? How important is the weight of the equipment for this kind of project?
DL: We were completely satisfied with the Samaya tents. Their light weight and compactness are essential in mountaineering, but even more so in combo, where we have to carry all our gear in flight. The ability to compact the tents was a real asset in optimizing space and minimizing weight.
The assembly of the tents, their wind resistance and their ability to retain heat despite the cold outside were also very much appreciated. At 5,500 meters, it gets extremely cold at night, and the ability to maintain a certain warmth inside is a real comfort.
DL: We were completely satisfied with the Samaya tents. Their light weight and compactness are essential in mountaineering, but even more so in combo, where we have to carry all our gear in flight. The ability to compact the tents was a real asset in optimizing space and minimizing weight.
The assembly of the tents, their wind resistance and their ability to retain heat despite the cold outside were also very much appreciated. At 5,500 meters, it gets extremely cold at night, and the ability to maintain a certain warmth inside is a real comfort.
You mentioned a certain disappointment at not having achieved all your plans, while being grateful for the experiences you had. What lessons have you learned from this expedition, and what message would you like to pass on to readers?
DL: Luck isn't always on our side! Six years ago, my first visit to Pakistan offered me exceptional flying conditions. This year, although we were fit and motivated, we faced the worst start to summer for several years. We still had a virgin summit in reserve, and working with Fabi was an immense pleasure. It's frustrating not to have had the chance to do everything we'd planned, but the mountain decides.
Expeditions like this are a mixture of success and learning. Those who had the patience to wait for a more favorable window of opportunity were finally able to take advantage of it. Unfortunately, we didn't have that flexibility. But we'll be back, because every experience is an opportunity to learn and come back stronger.
DL: Luck isn't always on our side! Six years ago, my first visit to Pakistan offered me exceptional flying conditions. This year, although we were fit and motivated, we faced the worst start to summer for several years. We still had a virgin summit in reserve, and working with Fabi was an immense pleasure. It's frustrating not to have had the chance to do everything we'd planned, but the mountain decides.
Expeditions like this are a mixture of success and learning. Those who had the patience to wait for a more favorable window of opportunity were finally able to take advantage of it. Unfortunately, we didn't have that flexibility. But we'll be back, because every experience is an opportunity to learn and come back stronger.
