Getting into winter camping: Christophe Dumarest's advice

 

More than ever, winter bivouacs are synonymous with a change of scenery and freedom. Setting up your own base camp, even in a nearby mountain range, has become particularly popular since the arrival of the pandemic. But beware, during the winter season, the rules imposed by the cold, the short days and the depth of the snow impose special logistics. Christophe Dumarest, athlete, guide and technical advisor at Samaya reveals the tips and tricks needed to make a success of your bivouac, even in the most rigorous conditions.

Many of us dream of a frosty journey to a destination near or far, for one or more nights under the stars. All that remains is to organize it well. Far from being boring, this phase, which is part of the strategy, contributes to the ascent later on: it tends to maximise two key factors - safety and comfort - that will make it possible to meet the expected objectives.
Once the equipment has been gathered and the first night has passed, it is likely that others will follow very quickly... Snow has the magic touch and can radically transform the perception of a landscape that was once thought familiar. Even without going very far, the contrast is radical. The winter bivouac is an inexhaustible source of wonder. A unique experience that leaves its mark on the timeline of your memories.

We do not compromise on the quality of the equipment

Already in summer, the experience of solitude, silence and raw beauty shapes the memory of a night under the stars. This contemplative nocturnal memory often takes precedence over the action of the day in the mountains. What can we say in winter, when the adventure lies primarily in the simple act of sleeping outdoors?

Choose and furnish your tent.

For a happy and timeless memory, there is no question or compromise when it comes to quality of equipment, starting with the tent. There are models that are light, reliable and comfortable, but also easy to set up and store when the wind, cold and snow come. True "rooms with a view", these products allow you to concentrate on the essentials and enjoy all the intensity of winter camping.
When furnishing your new room, keep in mind that your sleeping pad, too often neglected in favour of the sleeping bag, is an important factor in the quality of your sleep. The better it performs and insulates, the better it will be at night.

Beyond comfort, some tools related to security can be repurposed to set up camp.
Essential for safety - from the moment you step onto or close to snowy slopes that are steeper than 30°, your avalanche beacon kit, shovel, probe can also be used to set up your tent. The probe, to check that the ground is free of crevasses and the shovel, to build a low wall or dig a cold pit.

The sleeping pad, too often neglected in favour of the sleeping bag, is an important factor in the quality of your sleep.

Don't skimp on the quality of the stove.

Among all the equipment for winter camping, the stoves plays a central role. It is the stove that will allow you to melt the snow into water.
There are two main families of stoves. Gas stoves and gas stoves.

They are considered to be more economical and fuel is easier to find abroad. They are also more easily repairable and work very well in very cold weather. And even though they have a good resistance to cold, they are nevertheless dirtier, less reliable and ultimately less practical.

Gas-fired stoves are easier to use, extremely light and have the best performance. A performance that drops rapidly with low temperatures. Warming the cylinder before use is necessary, furthermore, you should prefer butane/propane mixtures or even better isobutane/propane for winter use.

In contrast to the summer, it is imperative to increase the amount of fuel significantly. The cold as well as the need for water and hot meals upset the references established for summer weather. A mini box or better a small foam cover around the gas cartridges will significantly increase their performance. The warmer the gas cartridges are, the better they will perform. Some vestibules offer suspension hooks for stoves, which is the best way to gain insulation.

Finally, in the case of long trips or heavy commitment, a spare stove may be useful, as well as a second lighter. As with your smartphone and batteries, keep them close to your chest.

Dress well, from head to toe.

Prefer warm merino wool underlayers to combine warmth and comfort, but also feather for the top and if possible for the bottom, because the cold comes from the feet, the head, but also from the legs.

Gloves in different sizes and spare ones will allow you to grasp the temperature scale without losing dexterity. There are silk gloves that can be kept permanently or mittens that can be changed into mittens if necessary. Woollen gloves retain heat even when wet, but are very difficult to dry and are therefore less and less popular. 

 

For a 5-star base camp: from installation to contemplation.

The installation of the base camp is part of the ancient know-how of the pioneers. It is also a whole section of the Himalayan culture that is invited into the heart of the Alps. At a time when the journey is as valuable as the ascent itself, the night out in winter is taking on new credentials, including for the best "riders" on the planet who seem to be increasingly seduced by the meaning and history associated with their descents. 

Finding the right location.

The location of the base camp must be breathtaking, but also a peaceful haven where you can sleep in peace. The objective risks linked to the bottom of the slopes, the foot of the cliffs or the overly marked depressions are obviously to be taken into account.
On glaciers, it is preferable to be roped up while probing the terrain to make sure it is free of crevasses. Your skis will allow you to pack the terrain, flat if possible and wide enough to be able to guy the structure and allow you to move comfortably around it. 

Set up camp.

If your tent is not sheltered from the wind, and if the weather forecast calls for it, it may be a good idea to build a small wall, cover the skirts with snow and secure them with poles, skis or ice pins. Make sure, however, that the ground doesn't freeze during the night, which would make removal difficult.
Once the additional vestibule has been installed, take the time to dig a cold pit at the entrance to trap the icy air (which migrates downwards) and thus gain a few degrees inside. This cavity will improve comfort and habitability when it's time to enter, equip yourself and cook.

Protect yourself from the cold.

The cold comes from the ground. In addition to a thick sleeping pad, some reinforce the insulation with an empty backpack, ropes, and anything else to cut off the cold from below. You should also take care of aeration and ventilation, which are essential to prevent condensation and therefore frost inside your tent and to ensure good airflow during the night. 

Keep things tidy.

A little order and method prevents the dispersion of equipment and helps to prepare well for the next day. The vestibule ensures that nothing is left outside at night, including helmets, ice axes and crampons. They could either fly away or be buried. At night, shoes are kept warm in the tent and anything that cannot freeze gets to stay in the sleeping bag. Gas and burner can be "warmed up" in the morning a few minutes before use. The only way to dry gloves and other socks is to keep them as close to the skin as possible, not far from the first layers, throughout the night. Finally, at bedtime, a metal bottle is the best hot water bottle, it can save you from complicated conditions by giving you a few extra degrees. 

It is also a whole section of the Himalayan culture that invites itself into the heart of the Alps.

Once the location of base camp has been chosen, the tent set up and the equipment in place, what remains to be done? Nothing except (re)connect to nature. The tent is that symbolic tool that allows you to move from action to contemplation, a real luxury to taste another relationship with time. Raise your head, your "five star" tent is set up under a sky of billions of stars. 

There you are.

Go back to basics.

Going to the mountains has the virtue of marking contrasts and instilling a more accurate and sometimes more conscious vision of simple actions which, "down below", are automatic. Eating and drinking at altitude are always eagerly awaited. More often than not with tenacious hunger and devouring thirst, the sensations associated with these vital needs have nothing to do with those felt in the valley.

Remember to drink, and drink some more.

It is advisable to always keep water in reserve and to melt snow as soon as possible. Inside the tent, containers and other bottles should not freeze. A large waterproof bag is useful for storing large amounts of snow without having to move around constantly. Your tent's compression bag can be used for this purpose. Drinking warm water before going to bed not only supplements the hydration often lacking in the mountains, but also increases internal heat when lying down. 

Eat rich, salty and sweet.

The calorie consumption associated with cold and effort is important. With the drop in temperature, it is rich, well salted and fairly sweet foods that are appreciated. Simple freeze-dried, mashed, quick-cooking foods are more popular than those with too complex and spicy tastes.
Although simple, the preparation of dehydrated dishes can be missed. To avoid this, the water must be boiling and the dish kept well closed, warm, inside your down jacket.
Extras - vegetarian or not, milk-based or not, sweet or savoury - are also welcome and will have a direct impact on your good mood! 

At altitude, a good night's sleep is essential to be fully operational and significantly increase your chances of success on ambitious climbs.

"No matter how beautiful the day is, night comes in its turn."

A good tent, a comfortable mattress and an appropriate sleeping bag are the keys to a good rest. At high altitude, a good night's sleep is essential to be fully operational and significantly increase your chances of success on ambitious climbs.

A synthesis between rigour and intensity, camping out in winter conditions takes on an extra dimension. Life outside has this ability to put us back in our right place and imposes a healthy humility. Faced with the perception of vastness, which is particularly prevalent in winter, wonder imposes itself and offers a powerful bridge that connects to the happiness of the present moment.

From these experiences comes gratitude. Perhaps a new gateway to the earthly paradise. Far from the common discourse inviting us to accumulate ceaselessly and to devote our energy to quantifiable actions, we think that as "conquerors of the useless" that dedicate their time and talent to ascents, as beautiful as they are futile, are indispensable to our world.

"Climb, feel, write" is the Pyrenean motto that reminds us that there is no adventure without a story. How can we fail to share the little flashes of light and the lessons gleaned from the summits? And because we at Samaya also believe that imagining, practicing and sharing are the three sides of the same mountain, we devote all our energy to dreaming, acting and spreading the word. You've been warned that going bivouacking this winter can lead to a form of addiction. After your first night under the stars, Samaya declines all responsibility if you feel like doing it again...